Colouring lesson 1

• Hairdressing
• Higher Education (non-degree)

Classroom Expectations

• No entering the classroom without a tutor.
  
• No food or drinks when entering the classroom- Only water in a clear bottle.
  
• Log onto a Chromebook
  
• Complete 'Do Now' task
  
• Participate fully in your session.
  
• No Hands up- Questions- No opt out.
  
• NO use of mobile phones- unless instructed to by tutor.
  
• Learning Review booklets/ Knowledge organisers.
  
• Remember to put Chromebooks at the end of session and remember to log out and put back on charge.
  

Unit 205

The art of colouring hair

In this unit we will

• Be able to apply safe working practices when colouring and lightening
  
• Know how health and safety policies and procedures affect colouring and lightening services
  
• Know how to prepare for colouring and lightening services
  
• Know the effects of colouring products on the hair.
• Be able to colour and lighten hair
  
• Know how to resolve basic colouring problems
  

Lesson objectives:

• List the health and safety policies involved when colouring hair
• Explain the importance of questioning a client during consultation
• Explain the contra-indications involved when colouring hair
• List and describe the different hair/skin tests carried out.

Health and Safety Legislation 

Think about different legislation that must be followed.... 2 mins to think.

Legislations

You need to make sure:

• Colours and lighteners are mixed correctly and in a designated well ventilated area of your salon.
  
• Carry out a thorough consultation, checking for scalp conditions and carrying out all the relevant test.
  
• Follow manufactures instructions
  
• Protect yourself and your clients.
  

What is COSHH stand for?

Control Of Substances Hazardous To Health (COSHH) Regulation 2002.

When mixing, using and applying colours, make sure you follow:

• The manufacturer’s instructions
  
• Local by – laws
  
• You salon’s policies and procedures.
  
• This includes wearing personal protection equipment (PPE) and SHUD

What does SHUD stand for?

SHUD

S – Storing chemicals and substances correctly

H – Handling chemicals and substances correctly

U – Using chemicals and substances correctly

D – Disposing of chemicals and substances correctly

What PPE do we need?

Contact Dermatitis

Inflammation of the skin caused by contact with substances resulting in rashes, dry skin and itching.

Preventing Contact Dermatitis

• TextWear PPE
  
• Wash hands after handling products
  
• Dry your hands and apply moisturiser

Questioning your client

You have a legal responsibility to question your clients about their hair and lifestyle before you complete your service. 

Where should you be recording these answers?

Questioning your client.

Task - In pairs, think about what types of questions your should be asking your client. 

Question examples

•  When did you last have your hair coloured?
• What colours/ products (if any) do you use?
• Do you want to cover any white hair?
• DO you want to go lighter or darker, or stay the same depth? 
• Do you have any photos?
• Is there anything you have ever had on your hair before that you didn't like?
• Do you like the tone of your hair?
• Do you want a permanent colour?
• Do you want an all over colour or highlights/ lowlights?

What does the term Contra-indication mean?

Contra-indication

Sometimes, a service cannot be carried out because of a contra-indication. 

You need to know if your client has any adverse reactions to medications, products or services in the past.

A contra-indication is anything that stops or effects the service being carried out. 

What examples can you think of? 

Contra-indications

Contra-indications

• History of previous allergic reactions to colour products
• Other know allergy
• Skin disorders
• Incompatible products
•  Medical advice or instructions
• Evident hair damage
• Age restrictions 

Students

History of previous allergic reaction to colouring products

• You need to ask your client if they have ever had an allergic reaction to colouring products before, including home colours or professional products.
  
• You MUST carry out a skin test to check if they are allergic to the products your salon uses.
  
• A client with a history of pervious allergic reactions to colour is more at risk of future allergic reactions. You may need to offer an alternative colour services or advise that colour services are not carried out.

Other known allergy

• You should always ask your clients if they have any allergies, such as a nut allergies. Some products contain almond oils, so must not be used on a client who is allergic to nuts.
  
• You MUST carry out a skin test following the MFIs
  
• A client with a history of other allergic reactions is more at risk of allergic reactions to colour. They may also be sensitive to some of the ingredients. You might need to offer an alternative colour service, or advise that colour services are not carried out
  

Skin Disorders

• You must ask your client is they suffer from any skin problems such as eczema or psoriasis.
  
• You should also visually check the scalp and look for any skin disorders, infections or infestations. Also you should check for any cuts or abrasions
  
• Some skin disorders will prevent colour services from being carried out. If you suspect any infections, infestations or cuts and wounds, you would not be able to carry out a colouring service.
  
• Psoriasis or eczema may not affect the service unless the areas are open or sensitive for the client
  

Medical advice or instructions

• You MUST ask your client if they are taking any medication or have been given medical advice that may affect the service.
  
• You should also be checking the hair for any new growth or damage.
  
• If a doctors has advised against a colouring service, then always follow that advice. Do not put your client in risk of injury or reaction, or risk the salon being sued.
  

Evident hair damage

• Ask your client how they treat and style their hair on a daily basis, for example, if the client uses straighteners or curling tong everyday.
  
• You need to carry out visual checks and make sure you carry out porosity and elasticity tests.
  
• If your clients hair is damaged then do not add additional chemicals to the hair. Consider alternatives, milder colour options or alternative services to treat the hairs condition.
  

Can you colour hair for a client under the age of 16?

YES

NO

Age restrictions

In November 2012 a new European Union directive came into force prohibiting certain colours and chemicals being used on any person below the age of 16.

The chemicals restricted for children under 16 are:

HC Orange No2

2 – hydroxyethylamino-5-nitroanisole.

Manufactures using products containing these chemicals are required to ensure their labelling includes the phrase ‘This product is not intended for use on persons under the age of 16’.

Colours that are mixed with hydrogen peroxide are also not permitted for use clients below the age of 16 years.

Incompatible products

• Remember to ask your client about their previous hair services and treatments. As these can react with professional products you use in the salon. 
• Typically henna and products containing metallic salts contain metallic salts that are incompatible with our products.
  
• You need to check for visible signs of hair discolouration and carry out an incompatibility test.
  
• If your client’s hair reacts positive when carrying out this test it means you cannot proceed with the colour. You need to advise alternative options.

What do you know about an incompatibility test?

Incompatibility test

Why - To check for metallic salts

When - Before a colouring or perming service 

How - Take a small test cutting and place it in a 20:1 solution. 20mls of liquid peroxide and 1ml of perm lotion. Leave for up to 30 mins.

Results - What should happen?

Skin sensitivity test

Why - To check your client is not allergic to colouring products

When - 24-48 hours before a colouring service (check MFI)

How - Clean behind the ear, apply a dark pigment. (follow MFI)

Results - What should the result be?

If you don’t skin test, this is what will happen to your clients. They can also take legal action against you for not skin testing!!!!

Porosity test

Elasticity test

Before all services on dry hair

Before all services on wet hair

Checks the cuticle layer of the hair

Checks the cortex layer of the hair

Should feel smooth and non-porous.

Should stretch about 30% and return to original length

Test cutting/colour test

When - Before a colour or lightening service

How - Apply the chosen colour to a section of the hair (either a test cutting or on the head).

Expected result and impact on service:

The desired result should be achieved, or further development may be required.

If the result is adverse the desired result is not achieved with the colour test. You would need to identify why and try an alternative product and re-test before applying the colour.

Strand test/ Colour test

When - During a colour or lightening service

How - Wipe off the colour or lightener from a few strands of hair

Expected results:

• If permanent colour is developed, then the desired result should be achieved.
  
• If the lightener is regularly checked, the level of lift should be achieved without damage to the hair.
  
• Further development may be required if the colour result has not been achieved.
  
• If the colour is not achieved, leave the hair to develop longer (if condition allows). If the colour is too light, remove the lightener immediately, apply a conditioning treatment and then tone with a semi-permanent toner.
  

Where should we record these test results?

Importance of record cards

• To record the services carried out for future reference
  
• To provide evidence of the test result and service outcome in case of any future legal action
  
• To maintain the professional image of the salon
  

During and after the service, ensure the client details are correct, easy to read and up to date. Make sure all of your service details, including client answers to any questions about their hair, and whether they are happy with the service outcome.

Always keep client information confidential and follow the requirements of the Data Protection Act.

Write down 3 things you learned in this lesson.

Have students enter three things they learned in this lesson. With this they can indicate their own learning efficiency of this lesson.

Ask 1 question about something you haven't quite understood yet.

The students indicate here (in question form) with which part of the material they still have difficulty. For the teacher, this not only provides insight into the extent to which the students understand/master the material, but also a good starting point for the next lesson.